We get a LOT of questions sent in every day and we can’t answer them all, so we have decided to ignore all questions from “random strangers” (unless they’re really useful to our readers) – but we do always try to answer questions from blog friends or from genuine blog followers who comment from time to time!
Here is a question from Anne, a new follower of our blog, in Aug:
I just got a girl like you who is trained to help me stay balanced when I walk. She is 6. As you guys tend to do, she wants to nuzzle me and push my hands to pat her whenever I sit down. My hands are arthritic and when she demands attention with her nose while I am, say, reading or writing, I do not have the strength to push her away. If I remove her a few feet, she comes back as soon as I sit down. She does this to company too. It is her only bad habit. I have started clicker training from your videos (her owner/trainer passed away and she has not been worked as a service dog for a year so is very rusty). I’m just not sure how to (or if to) use a clicker to help with this. I end up yelling at her before she goes away with hurt feelings, and I don’t want to have to do that.
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Once again, I hope some of our more experienced blog friends can offer their thoughts in the comments below. I know a few of them are actual service dog trainers so their knowledge would probably be the most useful!
Honey sometimes does this too when she wants attention/pats (more when she was younger) – she’ll come up to me when I’m at my desk and nose/nuzzle me or rest her chin on my arm or just put her face up very close to mine – to ask for attention. What I usually do is ignore her completely – no eye contact, nothing – and this will usually make her go away. Ultimately, what they want is attention so if they don’t get it, they will give up using this method.
If she is really persistent, I will even turn slightly away from her (literally, the “cold shoulder”) – you don’t have to get up to move away or even necessarily turn completely 180° away but just shift and turn away (the way you would if you were turning to talk to somebody on your other side) – so your face is turned away and shoulder is towards her and put your hands in your lap, so she can’t access them. If she goes around to your other side, repeat in reverse.
So if you can manage it, I think that ignoring your girl completely when she does this (and tell all guests to do the same) will teach her that she can’t get attention this way. Turning and looking away is actually a very powerful signal to a dog – they use it with each other when communicating through body language.
Of course, I don’t know how easy it is for you to do this, given your physical condition but if you can manage it, then I personally think ignoring her completely and turning away like this is the best method. I wouldn’t personally use clicker training in this situation – although I’m sure you can in some ways. For example, you could use clicker training to increase the duration of her remaining on her bed/mat – so that she doesn’t keep coming back to you – but as I said below, you might not want to have to confine her to a mat all the time when you’re working. The tricky thing with clicker is that it is used to mark a specific action – so in this case, you could use it to mark her when she finally turns away and leaves you alone – but then as soon as you click, she’ll be back at your side for the reward and she’s “right” to do that – because that is part of the deal with clicker training. So in this situation, I don’t feel that clicker training is as useful – but perhaps, I am simply not experienced enough to think of a way to use it – so maybe one of our blog friends will have a good suggestion using clicker training.
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Driving them to extinction
You have to brace yourself to stick with ‘Ignoring’ for a while because when you first start doing it, she may actually get MORE persistent. This is called an “extinction burst” – which is when dogs have been successful doing something in the past and when it suddemly doesn’t work anymore, they’ll get frustrated and try harder for a while – before finally giving up. It’s a bit like if you always got a chocolate every time you pushed a button on a vending machine – then one day, nothing came out. You wouldn’t just shrug and walk away, you would? You would immediately start pushing the button again – maybe harder, maybe several times, maybe even kicking the machine…and if something did pop out, you would think “Aha! The trick is to push harder or kick it!” – whereas if nothing came out, you would eventually give up and probably wouldn’t try again.
This is the reason that many pet owners often “fail” in their training – it isn’t that their methods are wrong but that they don’t resist or persist long enough. I call it “out-stubborning the dog”. They are not consistent in their reactions. They give in when the dog pesters harder – and that just makes the situation worse, because all it’s taught the dog is that they have to hassle you harder to get what they want. Most people are not prepared for this “extinction burst” but if you can ride it out, then you will usually get a dog that gives up and respects the new rule in the future.
I wouldn’t try to push your girl away – even if you could manage it without your arthritis – because that is still a form of attention and so you would still be rewarding her. Similarly, putting her on her bed is a good idea – but it only works if she will stay in it reliably and in any case, you don’t want to confine her to her bed all the time when you’re at home working – it’s nicer if she’s free to move around but just not hassle you. She could also still see the action of you putting her on her bed as a form of “attention” – and so she breaks from the bed to come back to you again and get more of it. Admittedly, it’s not the kind of attention she wants (ie. patting) but when dogs get an attention-seeking habit like this, any kind will do.
In addition, if you can, try to only give attention on your terms from now on, even in other situations (eg, living room when watching TV) – always be the one deciding when you’re going to give attention, always be the one calling her to you when you want to give her pats & attention. Ignore her when she demands it – wait until she goes away and has given up – THEN call her back to you and give her the pats/cuddles. This may sound cruel but it is only for a short period during this initial stage when you’re trying to re-teach her that she can’t “demand” attention by hassling you – she gets rewarded by attention when she is not hassling you.
It doesn’t mean that your girl can never ask for attention in the future – but once you’ve broken her of this habit, you will find that there will be a good balance. For example, Honey will come up to my desk sometimes now – usually when we first all move into my study, after breakfast – and stand next to my chair hoping for a pat – and I might rub her ears or stroke her head a bit (but sometimes, I don’t if I’m busy) – then I’ll turn away to my keyboard and she will go to her bed of her own accord. So you see, I don’t ignore her all the time now but she understands the rules now and she doesn’t pester me.

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“Yelling”/Verbal Corrections
As for yelling at her, I am not one of those “purely positive” trainers who believes that you shouldn’t ever say “No” to your dog or raise your voice, for fear of damaging the relationship between you. I think that’s rubbish and if you have such a fragile relationship, then you don’t have much of a bond in the first place. It’s like being afraid to ever say “No” or disagree with your husband or boyfriend because then he might not love you anymore.
This doesn’t mean that I think you should go around yelling at your dog (and yes, some dogs are so sensitive that even a slightly raised voice can crush them. You have to use your common sense and know your dog: some soft, sensitive dogs quiver at even a gentle “Hey’ – others get a loud reprimand and just shrug it off. As the saying goes: You don’t use a sledgehammer to crack a walnut). So I don’t think it’s using verbal correction occasionally is bad but I’m against yelling for practical reasons: a lot of the time, it is counterproductive (it can make the dog even more excited/unruly or in some cases, even defensive & aggressive) and there are often better ways to train and achieve what you want than by yelling. For example, in this case, yelling at your girl is still a form of “attention”so you are still rewarding her in some way, plus it sounds like you have tried using it and it isn’t very effective anyway, if she is still doing it.
So I wouldn’t do it for those reasons – but I personally don’t get hung up about “hurt feelings” in your dog and worrying about not being their best friend all the time and never introducing anything negative into their lives. I don’t try to be Honey’s “best friend” at all - I see myself as her partner and her owner, even her “master” if you like – I don’t see myself as her “mum/mom” or her “best friend” or anything like that. She is my dog and I don’t love her any less or do less for her just because I think of her as a dog and not a surrogate child – but as my dog, I expect her to know her place in our household, obey me and respect my rules.
I’m not trying to make her always love me and I’m not constantly worried that if I do something, she’ll stop loving me. I’m sure there are times when she is frustrated with me or resentful of the rules I make her follow…tough luck. And if Honey really pushes me and persists in doing something, despite me being patient and trying other ways first – well, she will get a very sharp “NO!” or in really serious cases, the dreaded “VERY BAD GIRL!” in a very LOUD voice coupled with the Scary Face!
I don’t feel remotely sorry when I tell her off in those situations. I know I have been patient and consistent and given her a lot of chances – and now this is the consequence.
I know there are probably people reading this now gasping in horror and waiting to lynch me in various online forums – I know this isn’t an “acceptable” or “pc” attitude to have in today’s pet world but I have always been unapologetic about the way I see my pets. I love them a lot and spend a HUGE amount of time & effort on them but I don’t believe in trying to pander to them all the time, just to always keep things “positive” between us.
That doesn’t mean that I go around bashing and yelling at them all the time – I always try other methods first. But sometimes, a sharp verbal correction is necessary and I don’t feel guilty or awful when I have to do it. Sometimes it just comes down to a simple - ‘Don’t do that or it’ll make me angry!’
Making me angry or getting my disapproval is a good enough reason and strong enough incentive for Honey to change her behaviour – because we have a very strong bond.
You could say it’s because she “loves” me and doesn’t want to disappoint me. Yeah, maybe. A more un-sentimental interpretation would be that she is “scared” of me and my anger or disapproval (Gasp! Another of those taboos!
Your dog being “fearful” of you!!) – well, I had a “healthy fear” of my own mother growing up but that didn’t make me love her any less and I have a very good relationship with her. Similarly with many of my favourite teachers who brought out the best in me. So I’m fine with that.
I don’t think anyone looking at Honey with me would say that my “tough” attitude towards her has made her cower in fear of me all the time or broken her spirit or turned her into a nervous wreck, etc, etc – if anything, she is a more confident, well-balanced dog than most and we have a very good, strong bond, which has enabled me to do a lot of different things with her and give her a very full life. In this sense, I think I’m fulfilling the role of “best friend”.
NB. I repeat – I am NOT condoning or encouraging people yelling at their dogs to solve problems! And I am NOT saying that being able to yell at your dog is a sign of a strong relationship. Please see my response to Aj’s comment below.
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ps. I can tell you from personal experience that “ignoring” doesn’t work with cats – especially when they decide to sit or sleep on your keyboard & other work!
In Lemon’s case, we ended up having to make up a “bed” for her in the middle of our desk to accommodate her!

Good luck!
~ Hsin-Yi
Hahahaah Lemon, such a cutie pie.
Totally loved this post and oh my gosh Honey is so cute in that first picture with Paul.
And this post just came in at the right time, Bambi and me had a little issue yesterday and I got so frustrated and started yelling at her loudly, and even he started growling at me; it was not a good situation at all. Bambi has got this problem of growling when I try to take away something from her, especially the tug, or stones that she bring inside from the garden, but I believe many Great Danes (Mastiffs) have this problem of growling in their puppyhood and will stop doing it once they are matured (Please do share your thoughts about it, is it something that I should worry about or is it normal according to you)
So yesterday after this 5 minutes intense yelling and growling, I gave up and was so upset that I yelled at him and made him feel extremely insecure. But you know, we got things back to normal just in minutes, when I just got to him and started cuddling and petting him.
So just like you, I do not think as soon as you say a stubborn NO or not let them do something that you do not want to, it is not going to spoil the relationship with your dog, well unless of course it is such a fragile relationship that one has with the dog.
So thank you so much for posting this, just at the right time; it makes me feel better, and someone to relate to.
Aj -- I can totally understand your frustrations as I can remember being there with Honey when she was a “monster puppy”!
But I must say a few things:
1) First, I think you might have misunderstood me. I don’t think it’s a good idea if you have to do “5 mins of intense yelling” while your dog is growling back at you!! When I talk about verbal correction, I was thinking more of a sharp word or two in the form of what Dr Ian Dunbar calls “instructive reprimands”. If you’re having to yell at your dog that long -- it is not achieving anything; you are simply venting your frustration on him and yes, it probably is damaging your relationship!
So that is not what I am condoning or encouraging in any way. I think if you’re having to do that, then you need to look for other ways to manage/train/discipline Bambi.
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2) I must emphasise that I am NOT a professional dog trainer/behaviourist so I really urge you to get the opinion of one.
But in my book, I would be concerned if my dog was growling at me (unless they are in pain) and that to me is a sign of a potentially “fragile” relationship. I don’t mean that you & Bambi have a “bad” relationship -- especially as he is still young and probably testing boundaries at the moment -- but more that it’s a sign the relationship probably isn’t developing the way it should and may be heading for trouble later. To me, my dog growling at me means that I am not being a good enough leader in their eyes and they don’t trust me enough -- I am not stepping up enough to the leadership role. Especially in a situation such as you described -- when you want to take something off them. Honey never objects when I want to take anything from her -- I can even reach into her mouth and take food out that she is eating. Don’t get me wrong -- I don’t make a habit of doing this just to “prove” my power -- but I have had to do it a few times in the past, eg. when she has picked up a cooked chicken bone when out on our walks and I had to stick my hand into her mouth to grab it out. She just accepts it and has never growled at me or would even dream of it (and I always reward her for letting me do it).
I personally think it is very important that your dog allows you to take things away from them. I don’t mean that you should keep teasing them by taking things away from them on purpose, just to prove you can -- there are some dog training manuals out there that advise you to do that, which I don’t agree with -- it just teaches dogs to be wary of you always coming to take their things away. When we give Honey her bowl or her bone or whatever, we usually leave her alone to eat it. BUT -- we have occasionally had to pick up the bone or bowl (eg, to move her to another place to eat it) and there is never any issue with either me or Paul doing this. So I think it’s important that dogs WILL allow you to do this without growling or getting defensive.
The way we achieved this was to approach Puppy Honey when she was with her bone or chew treat or favourite toy -- with something even more amazing that she isn’t normally allowed to get (eg, human junk food!). Then we gave her the “special yummy” while simultaneously taking away her bone/treat/toy away. Then we gave her the bone/treat/toy back. Also, we used to occasionally approach her when she is eating her meals and add something extra nice to her bowl. Again, this taught her that us approaching and sticking a hand into her bowl is not a threat; in fact, it’s a bonus! We only did this a few times when she was a puppy but it gave her the idea that when we approach her to take things away from her, it’s always because we’re giving her something even better. Some people might call it “bribery” -- call it whatever you want. The point is, I’m teaching my dog to TRUST me -- that I’ll always reward her/make things nicer/better -- if she lets me do what I want. Now, we don’t always swap something when we want to take things away from Honey -- but it doesn’t matter -- it’s already imprinted in her mind that us taking things away from her is not a threat -- it is the promise of something better.
So I would really recommend that you do this with Bambi -- practise doing it when he’s got his tug toy or anything else he really likes. Don’t use physical force or “yelling” to try and make him give up his treasure to you -- be clever and “trick” him into giving it up -- and thinking that he did it willingly!
That’s the advantage of us being humans and supposedly being the smarter species!
And make sure that 50% of the time when you take the thing from him, give it back to him afterwards. So he thinks “Hey -- wow -- when I let Aj take my Tug toy, not only do I get this super nice extra yummy but I get my Tug toy back too! Aj is great!” This sets up a very receptive, positive frame of mind from Bambi -- so that if in future, there are a few occasions when you do need to take things off him (even without a swap handy) -- he will still give it up willingly.
* NOTE: I haven’t met Bambi so I don’t know his temperament/breeding but there are some dogs who are naturally very possessive. It is called “resource guarding” and it can become a serious issue. So if this is the case with Bambi, you may need professional help to guide you. What I am suggesting is just a general exercise to do with all puppies/young dogs but if Bambi is developing a serious resource guarding problem, then you need to seek professional help. Resource guarding is one of the most common reasons why dogs bite in the family. Yelling at or getting confrontational with a resource guarder can simply make them more aggressive. So you need to be aware of this. I am not saying this is what Bambi is -- it is impossible to really assess & advise on dog behaviour over the internet -- but you need to judge yourself how serious his behaviour is when he is challenging you, when you try to take things away from him -- and whether this behaviour is escalating. I don’t mean to scare you -- he may just be being a rebellious teenager -- but how you handle this now is important.
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3) When I talk about being “stubborn” or “tough” with my dog, I don’t mean that I must “dominate” them (such a dirty word, these days!) and squash them -- I never use force to make my dog do something -- but I still “make” Honey do things. I emphasise my leadership by always enforcing any command I give/any rule I make -- but I don’t use physical force or yelling to achieve this. I set things up so that she has no choice but to obey. I use my superior brain as a human to find a way to make her do things and essentially “obey” me -- without necessarily a confrontation. Honey has never growled at me in her life -- or challenged me in any way -- and this is NOT because she is a submissive dog at all!
I don’t know if you are already doing this with Bambi but if not, I would strongly recommend you follow the NILIF system for raising Bambi (Nothing In Life Is Free) -- Google it. This is how we raised Honey and it is a fantastic way to establish your authority over dogs without having to get confrontational. It simply means that they have to earn everything they want. It’s a very subtle but effective way of establishing your authority over the dog, without ever having to get confrontational.
As an example, when Honey was a teenager, she went through this stage when she would refuse to do a Down on hard ground. She would only do it on a soft surface. Now, you might be feeling sorry for her -- oh, poor thing, so tough on a Dane, blah-blah-blah -- and a lot of Danes end up “not being able” to do this or that, because their humans let them get away with it but I don’t make excuses for my dog if my request is reasonable. The point is, I needed her to be able to lie down on hard surfaces as well and not just on carpet. It’s not THAT much of a torture -- dogs lie on hard surfaces all the time. She had no physical handicap or any other reason that was preventing her from lying down on a hard surface -- she was just being “difficult” and pushing boundaries to see if she could get away with refusing my command. Well, I didn’t try to fight her on it -- I didn’t try to physically push her down or yell at her or keep trying to lure her with treats…what I did was for 1 week, every day when it was time for her reakfast or dinner -- I would show her the bowl and then take her outside into the garden and ask for a Down on the concrete. If she refused, she didn’t get her breakfast/dinner. It was very simple -- I wasn’t forcing her to do anything but I was giving her a choice: you want to be fed? You earn it by doing what I say. Well! You will never believe how fast Honey went into her Down!
I only had to do this for 1 week but after that, I have never had trouble again with Honey refusing to lie Down on concrete. I had “won” that battle -- but it was more a battle of wits than a battle of strength. You might say that it was “bribery” -- but it doesn’t matter. Dogs don’t see it like that. All Honey knows is that I “made” her lie down on concrete in the end -- she had to bend to my will -- and that was enough for her. I also made her lie down on concrete during that week whenever she wanted something really badly (eg. her tennis ball/favourite toy) -- I would take her out to the garden and ask for a Down on the hard ground. It was only for a second -- I didn’t force her to lie there for ages -- but it was just to make my point. She couldn’t get away with refusing me. Not if she wanted all the good things in life. I control the resources therefore I am the boss.
This is just an example but this is the way I have “dominated” Honey all through her life and established my authority over her. It’s been very important for me to do this because I always knew that I am a small person and Honey was always going to outweigh me (as a 6 month old puppy, she was already the same weight as me!) -- so I had to find ways to bend her to my will but cleverly, so that she does it all willingly. People look at us and the most common question they ask is “How does such a small person like you control a dog her size?” It’s simple -- by earning her respect through clever “tricks” like this and by being a good enough leader that inspires her to want to obey me.
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I hope this clears things up a bit. I think there is a lot of misunderstanding out there with regards to being a “leader” to your dog and what that means and all the drama that goes around the words like “dominate” and “correction”. But just because I think it is fine to “tell your dog off” sometimes does not mean that I think you should use yelling and confrontation to solve problems.
Good luck, Aj -- you’re at a difficult time with Bambi but hopefully, if you remain consistent and patient, then you should get through it fine!
Hsin-Yi
SEE Aj’s FURTHER CLARIFICATION BELOW
Heheh that is a big relief and feel much better now. LOL Thanks
My son has a 95# male Dane/Weimaraner mix, an aggressive (and can be hostile) dog. My son came to help me with construction work and the plan was for me to take care of the dog while he went to the job site.
The first night he was here Atilla bit me! (Larry was sleeping on the couch with Atilla at the foot of the couch. Without thinking I grabbed Atilla’s collar and sternly said, “Dogs don’t sleep on my couch!” That is when I got bit. I surprised a sleeping dog and invaded the territory of a dog who I had no authority over.)
From that point on I thought about it before I dealt with Atilla! (I had never read any of Hsin-Yi’s writing.) My first concern was to be sure he respected me and obeyed me. I told my son that I wanted to be in charge of his food. I taught him to eat out of my hand and I made a point to stand near his dish and to put my hands there.
I found that Atilla was “needy” for activity, so I kept him busy doing “tricks” (dog school) and simply telling him go here, go there, all day long. I insisted that he not ignore me, but do exactly as I said.
I did lots of “tummy rubs”, and made sure he rolled over immediately when told to.
I worked with him for a long time on the positive level before I ever spoke to him in a harsh tone. I found out the best corrective action was to send him to “The Room” for awhile and put up the baby gate. I would talk to him across the baby gate. He easilly could have jumped over, but would simply lie down. Pretty soon he was ready to come out and be a good dog again.
Atilla was constantly testing the waters. He was a difficult dog to take care of, but I had him and loved him off and on for 2 1/2 years when my son had work conflicts or could not have him where he was living.
Anyway, that’s how it worked out with me with a challenging dog. (I love that boy, but sure don’t want to have to take care of him!)
Hsin-Yi, dogs are exactly like children, you need to set boundaries and you need to be an authority figure, not a ‘best friend’. I truly believe that there are so many misbehaving children and dogs around because this relationship has gone too far in the direction of ‘friend’, away from the dictatorship style of the past. A relationship with a dog or a child needs to be based on respect and obedience, even if it’s just for safety reasons, but I believe that respect is the cornerstone of any relationship, and even when kids get older that should be the main part of their relationship with you, and will result in good decision making hopefully!!
Thank you so much for your reply Hsin Yi!
I thought I just got to explain the whole scenario of yesterday for a better understanding. Just like Honey’s zombie video after shower, Bambi too gets into that mode after shower or swimming in the pool. So yesterday after swimming for some 15 min continuous, he got outta the pool and started running around like a maniac, I was scared that he would injure himself and so wanted to leash him before I dried him using a towel. Well he hates me drying him using a towel, unless I give him some treats while doing it, he constantly tries to bite the towel or my hand in the very puppyish way, not aggressive by any means. So when he kept on doing it for some more time, I got a little stressed (it was a stressful day, however) and ignored him for a while, when I went back to him again he did not stop but did obey my commands and was in a DOWN position while constantly trying to get hold of the towel. After sometime I got even more stressed and pulled out the towel from his mouth, so that is when he growled at me; but he did not show his teeth or was growling in a fearsome protective way, it is more of a game to him to test my boundaries and probably challenging me. Yes I mentioned ‘intense 5 min yelling’, but it was not me shouting shouting shouting, I may have yelled a line or two but the entire atmosphere there at that moment was quite intense as he was in his red level zone and so was me and surely that would have held up for some 5 min.
And its only when he is super hyper that he tends to growl (as I mentioned not in an aggressive way at all, but challenging) or not let me take things out of his mouth. Most of the time, I reach out to his mouth and pull out all the stuff that he gets home from the garden and more often than not, he is submissive and lets me do that. And like you mentioned I do give away treats when he releases the tug, or drop out something that I do not want him to chew, and I do take away his food sometimes, to only replace it with something even better and he knows all that, but I am afraid something is wrong somewhere, like I mentioned when he is in that hyper mood he constantly challenges me and do things in not the usual way. Definitely I gotta follow the NILIF system of upbringing him as he is growing too fast already.
I do not in ANYWAY end up with a physical confrontation with him, as I definitely feel it is not right and will certainly damage my relationship with him, but I do end up shouting at him to only know that I am not achieving anything at last (probably to vent out my frustration, just like you mentioned). I never ever want to be a dominating, stubborn owner of Bambi, I want more of a best friend relationship where one is allowed to take decisions and the other one follows as he is not used to the terms and conditions of living in a human dominated society.
He is only 3 months old now, so I think there is enough time for me to get things back on track (if it is wrong at all); I do not feel anything is ultra damaged at the moment, because we are still going on with our daily routines and he is an extremely quick learner, it is just that I got to follow few things that you mentioned and may be portray myself to be a better and strong leader that Bambi is wishing for.
Phew puppyhood is not easy at all…but Bambi is certainly better than my lab when she was a puppy (btw she is also Honey :p)
Thank you once again for taking so much time and making me understand all this, really appreciate it and definitely I am going to adapt all that you mentioned.
Bambi and Aj
Hi again, Aj -- thanks for clarifying things!
And I’m sorry if I mistunderstood you -- I hope you didn’t feel that I was jumping down your throat or anything! I was just worried in case you thought I was condoning or encouraging yelling at your dog and getting into a confrontation with him.
Listening to your description, it does sound like Bambi is growling more out of excitement and play, than in aggression. You are the ultimate judge of that so you will have to see his body language when he is growling -- a serious growl with intent will often come with a “hard” look in the eyes, the muzzle wrinkled or teeth bared and the body stiff. But I trust you and your reading of Bambi -- and anyway, at 3 months, it is very unlikely that he is seriously aggressive (although there ARE some puppies who display aggression at an early stage. Honey had a Golden Retriever in her puppy class who would snarl & bite & snap at people if they didn’t do what he wanted -- and he was only 12 weeks old. He was a very unbalanced puppy with serious temperament issues).
And I forgot to mention that dogs will often vocalise in excitement and play -- and this is acceptable. Honey does this a lot and yes, she does sometimes growl when she is playing Tug with me. But she is not growing AT me -- she is just vocalising as part of the excitement of the game (I often “growl” back at her, as part of the game but it’s a play growl, not the same voice I use when I’m telling her off) -- and it is a very different type of growl plus her eyes are soft. She will also release the tug toy the minute I say so. So growling in this case -- ie. growling during the game, when you’re pulling on the tug toy -- is not a cause for concern and if you think this is what Bambi is doing, then that’s fine.
What I was talking about is if Bambi growls at you as you reach your hand forward to take something from him -- or after you have taken it away -- then that’s different. You can also tell because the body language is different -- he would be very obviously “warning you”.
If you haven’t yet, it might still be useful for you to teach Bambi a specific word that means to let go of what’s in his mouth. We used “Drop it” with Honey. It’s very useful not only for Tug but also whenever he gets anything in his mouth that you want him to spit out. It is one of the most useful commands we have taught Honey and we have used it throughout her life as an adult.
It sounds like Bambi thought the whole towel thing was a game and he was trying to play Tug with it -- also as a way to distract you and get away from being dried. Also, biting & mouthing behaviour is very normal at this age so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. I know it’s really annoying but if you just persist, he will slowly grow out of it. He must see that he can’t get out of being dried just by mouthing you to distract you -- that won’t work. So if possible (and I know it can be hard with the sharp puppy teeth!) try to ignore him as best you can and just keep on drying him calmly.
I know it can be really hard when you’re worried and frustrated to stay calm -- but the more you “react”, the more you’re feeding into him. He’s like a child now who’s poking you to see if he can get a reaction out of you -- that’s how he’s testing you with all the mouthing and stuff -- so the less you react, the less satisfaction he gets from the game and the less urge to keep playing it. But definitely still use treats to reward him for letting you dry him. You won’t have to do it forever but at this stage, you are still very much teaching him that accepting things like this in his daily life will be rewarding for him and is associated with good things. You could try having a special treat that he ONLY gets after being towelled off.
I don’t think you have “damaged” your relationship with Bambi at all -- it sounds like you’re doing all the right things and are a very conscientious owner! But yeah, definitely look up the NILIF system and follow that -- it will help you a lot. But don’t feel bad if you lose your temper now and then. I have been guilty of that several times when Honey was a puppy -- so I am not judging you about the yelling. I was just trying to explain that it isn’t very useful, especially if it happens a lot -- but if it happens once in a while -- hey, we’re only human, right?
You should see some of the times when I lost my temper at Honey when she was a puppy…whew! The roof of the house nearly blew off!
Hsin-Yi
One thing I have to mention, that was brought up to me recently… I don’t have the link handy, but studies have shown that, along with other forms of punishment, teaching into a dog’s mouth to take things out is dangerous, as it makes them much more likely to become aggressive and bite! Not saying it makes every dog aggressive, but there is a very definite association, and you run that high risk. Occasionally you may have to, if the dog has something dangerous and won’t drop it, but other than those rare cases, please don’t. Instead, work very hard on teaching the dog a very good “drop it”. (I’m not there yet with my dogs on the “drop it”, but working on it when I have the energy, and I have stopped taking away anything that is not actually dangerous to them, ever, if they won’t voluntarily let it go, ever since I learned this.)
Very well said! I admit I do sometimes yell at Sparkie, usually only when I’ve already tried other methods -- for example, when she’s barking at something out the window, method #1 is to tell her “Sparkie, be quiet.” If that doesn’t work, I’ll pat her gently to get her attention (if she’s within easy reach) or give a loud whistle. Usually this will distract her enough to get her focus on me, so I can give her a “moving” command, like to go to her bed or come to me.
We’ve never really had an issue with her demanding attention. I guess because we live in a bus we’re always very close together, and I make it a habit to iniate a snuggle session at least once a day. This seems to keep her need for attention satisfied.
- Jasmine
Miss Honey. We have hidden this posting so the muzzer cannot find it. We do not want her getting any ideas. Affection! When we want it! Where we want it! YAAAAAY
gus n teka
Darn, thought I’d be able to use this for my kitty until the very end! =P Pepper’s generally very good about staying on the other side of the desk while I do work now. She used to be plopped down right on top of my keyboard when she was younger! Great post to keep in mind for when I get my future puppy tho! Thanks!
Hsin-Yi,
I really enjoyed your explanation about not being a dog’s mom but a master. I agree with you and I think that well written post should be published somewhere. Setting boundries and rules help to build that bond, I love when you refer to your “Scary Face”. My kids often talk about my “Big Eyes” when I’m upset or something. Hope you are all doing well. Hope you have a nice winter down there!
April
Hsin-Yi,
Thank you for addressing this question so thoroughly and comprehensively. Over the past 3 months, I’ve been stressing over how to train Poppy. It’s been decades since I had a puppy, always before I had older dogs from the pound who seemed to pick up their “lessons” much faster than Poppy. I get frustrated. I read all sorts of training techniques. I get confused and more frustrated. Like the Anne, I have severe arthritis. I can’t respond to Pops behavior as quickly as I ought, AND often the clicker triggers hand spasms. I need my girl to listen to me. In reality, I probably shouldn’t have gotten a puppy, but I did!
So I really appreciate your very balanced outlook on dog training, their relationship to us, and real life advice. Now I’ve got to try the cat bed idea, because…well…you know how cats are -- in your face!!!
Nanina
We’ve had incredible luck with having them do a trick, i.e. do something constructive. For example, Sam paws at me terribly when I’m at the computer. So I put him in a down, sometimes with treats and sometimes without. The next time he does it, I’ll tell him to go to his “house”. In our house, “houses” are areas the dogs are sent to keep them out of the way when people are over, or we are trying to mop the floor, or for whatever reason. By doing this, Sam realized he was going to have to work when he did this bad behavior and quit doing it. He hasn’t done it for years.
Sam
Molly loves to nudge mom’s elbow when she’s eating at the table. She wants to make sure that mom knows that she’s starving to death! That girl gets away with murder!
Love ya lots,
Mitch
Lots of good information. I admit, I am guilty of being a dog mom.
I went to see a demonstration of a Border Collie trained to herd sheep and goats. The trainer had a phrase, “That’ll be all”, which signaled the dog to leave the sheep and goats and come back to him.
I don’t do a lot of “tricks” with my dogs, but they are reasonably well behaved around the house. (See my comments above about Atilla. When I had him I constantly had to work with him.)
My dogs seem to sense what I want and do it. When I saw the Border Collie, I though “That’ll be all” was a good thing to say, so when I was tired of the animals, (maybe too much petting), I would say that. They also know, “Enough” and “Go away”.
Lucy (a dog) just came up to me for attention while I was reading this post and I unconsciously gestured to her the same as what I would gesture a waitress that I did not want more coffee. She saw it and turned away.
Other gestures they know is my hand up, and another is my hand drawing an imaginary wall. (My dad used to tell our dog “don’t step over that line”, or “there’s a line”) He drew the line.
The dogs know “Go lie down” means “don’t bother me”. It doesn’t mean the same as “lie down”, or “down”.
I use the same words and gestures with the cat, but he is not as well behaved. One that seems to work is to draw “the wall” right in front of the cat’s face while saying “back back back”. He gets it.
I thought I could teach the cat to simply sit on my desk, but not so! He is a terrible nuissance. What seems to work the best is to scoop him up and put him down EVERY time he gets up there. He still tries is once in awhile, but mostly doesn’t bother because he knows that he will very gently get set back down on the floor.
The cat is lonely, as he misses his two former cat companions. I know he’s lonely, and when he starts hanging around the office, the easy chair, or wherever I am, I pick him up, talk to him and give him some attention. He also likes to practice sit and shake hands with the dogs.
Anne, I know some of what I wrote you can’t do because of your hands. Hsin-Yi wrote you good advice. I simply encourage you to try my words, “That’ll be all”, “go away”, or whatever works best for you. I say stuff to Lucy like, “I told you to leave it alone and you left it alone. You are a good dog”. She just glows in the praise. (If you read about Atilla above he was the same. He just LOVED me telling him he was a good dog.) I’m taking care of a new dog now (another one who needed a place to live). Shadow just glows when I tell him he is good. I swear I can see him smile!
Yes! I was gonna say, Hsin-Yi uses “no more” when there are no more treats to be had. That exact same “no more” cut will work with affection. Give a pet or two, or none, then say “no more”. Same when you’re giving treats. Then pair with the body language, turn away, ignore. And consistency, “no more” means no more for now, ever. They will generalize this one, and learn to give up and go away on that cue.
If you want to use treats to train turning away from you and going away on a cue, I would suggest getting a Manners Minder. That’s a machine you can put across the room, and it dispenses treats via remote control when you push a button. It also can make a beep that works just like a clicker, before dispensing the treat. That way the dog is getting her reward across the room, not from your hand.
So, the question is -- how to stop dog demanding attention with nose nuzzles?
Well, I have a somewhat different perspective on that question this week. I would give anything if I could feel Jackson’s nose nuzzles again. I loved them because I knew it was his way of communicating with me and asking to interact with me. I would always stop what I was doing and spend a minute scratching his ears or putting my arm around him. Even though I was busy sometimes, I valued those moments with him and am so glad I didn’t ignore him or send him away. When your dog is gone, you may regret the times you pushed them away, but you will never regret the times you spent cuddling with them.
Hsin-Yi, great advice as always. We have always done the ignore demanding attention and it does work. Sometimes it’s difficult to ignore a large dog (especially with slobber involved hehe) , but perseverance does pay off. Stella has been going through a ‘tapping’ phase (which I think she copied from Rory, as he always taps her to play) but we ignore and she always stops. We also never speak, make eye contact etc as you advise.
Thanks for the informative post. Good luck to Bambi’s owner too. Perserverance and 100 percent consistency is the key in our opinion. No worries, and love, Carol (and Stella and Rory)
Ignoring unwanted behavior really works. Visiting with my cousins just this morning, I had to wear my “scary face” and win at staring down their attention-seeking puppy who has trained my cousins to pick him up and pet him when he was scratching at their legs. Stubborn pup tried to challenge my scary face by barking at me but I persisted and he sat down. As soon as he did, I changed to happy face and stroked his head. I worked with him throughout the day and he learned that I would pet him only if his butt was on the floor. It’s really easy to lose your temper and shout at a pesky pup who doesn’t get it that he’s ruining your pants but… *sigh* the meaning would just be lost in translation. Pups are such quick learners, though. In the few hours in my company, he experienced being ignored and he calmed down. He sat quietly though staring intently at me, as if willing me with mind control. (=
The point of my long comment is, dogs don’t know our rules and we have to make them understand what those are. With a little bit of time and a little bit of follow-through, they’ll soon get it. When they do, they’ll feel how pleased you are with them,and pleased with themselves as well.
I agree whole heartedly with you post here. You need to show boundaries and make them obey. For my lab girl, Katla, I used the Icelandic word for No which is Nei (Nay) a bit harshly (with a stern look on my face) if she was doing something I didnt want her to do and it worked like a charm. I didnt have to yell, force, push or in any way “handle” her.
I do however remember one occasion where I lost my temper and yelled at her. She snuck out for a stroll and I caught her as she was coming home. I lost my temper and yelled at her and then completely ignored her for a while. She never snuck out again, and I could leave the door completely open. I think it was the “cold shoulder” that did the trick there.
I was in control at all times and she knew that. Of course, sometimes she would get a banana in her ears if she didn´t feel like doing what ever it was that I requested (and sometimes I would let her “get away with” not playing or what ever it was, especially when she was getting older) BUT when push comes to shove, if I wanted something done, she would do it. My girl NEVER EVER growled or barked at me in any way menacing, despite telling her no and being in control.
sorry for the lengthy post. I just agree fully with how your have raised honey. More people should look to you as a role model
Ignoring obnoxious attention-seeking behaviors is about the only thing that works, but you can’t give in even ONCE or you have to start all over again. A firm “no” when needed is never bad; obviously children need to be told “no” and no one says parents are bad for doing so. But I don’t think the “no” thing works well with attention-seeking, because it’s still attention.
Much more importantly for me, though — we want to know more about those Salsa Dance Lessons you have posted on the bulletin board by your computer!! Honey — are your humans plotting to turn you into the next “Merengue Dog”?
This was a very well written post. While I strongly disagree with yelling at Nola (she’s a very high strong or “soft” dog), that’s simply because it does not work for her and makes things 10x worse. A low “no” or “hey” is all she needs.
We recently brought a pitbul pup into our house and watching the Danes interact with him was interesting. If he transgressed, they ‘yelled’ (loud and sharp) until he listened and then immediate ‘peace’.
Regarding foodbowls: Our first dog was a grown Amstaff and I made sure to stay close after giving food or treats. If he growled I would tell him off without fear “I gave it to you I can take it away” (a bit of mom’s training, she used to threaten “I brought you into this world, I can help you out”.) With new dogs/pups I make sure to stay real close with the bowl and put my hand in and fiddle with the food or stroke them and speak calmly.
Important is the non-verbal communication. If you do not believe in yourself, why should your dog take you seriously? If you stand by your dog “feeling” dominant, the dog will feel it too. If you are fearful you have lost the battle.
Also remember that dogs do not hold grudges -- after correction we are friends again, immediately.
Thanks for another well written post! We’re bad about not ignoring Darwin… we usually give into her nose nudges (bad!).
I have no issue with using the “no” word with our dogs. Chessies can have strong personalities so their owners have to be strong leaders. That is not to say that we don’t use positive reinforcement. We do. But I am a little jealous of Anne. Chessies don’t come around that often for pats and attention. When they do it is usually welcome.
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Even though I call my dogs (and horse) my “kids” does not mean that I make everything purely positive and don’t ever discipline. In fact I feel the way you do about dog training in general although I tend to me more cuddly, etc. than you are. The fact is I think human children could benefit from being “trained” more like a dog would be. A lot of people get offended when I say that, but really a lot of the same principles apply!!! So yeah I call myself their mom, but that doesn’t mean I let them run all over me, try to keep things purely positive and don’t ever use discipline, but then again I wouldn’t let a human child do that either!!! I think discipline and boundaries are VERY important for both children and pets. Everyone has to learn self control and learn how to live in society and I think fair, consistent “training” is the way to achieve it with both of them.
Sorry if I’m not explaining myself well, I’m running late for work lol, but I’m sure you get what I’m saying. Anyway great post once again! Thanks for taking the time to write these.