Honey the Great Dane

Hi everybody – we’ve had a few questions recently in our comments that my human, Hsin-Yi has been meaning to answer but has just been too busy – and since she’s trying to do some “catch-up” this weekend, we thought we’d do a couple of posts to answer those questions! (And I’ll let Hsin-Yi do the answering coz she’ll probably explain it better)

Slobbers,
Honey the Great Dane

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(from Hsin-Yi)

A couple of posts ago, one of our readers called “Sarah” asked “Great to see you still doing training. I was just wondered why you felt the need to put a choke chain on Honey?”

- Well, the short answer to that is: I don’t need to – I just prefer the way a chain looks, loose at the base of the neck, as opposed to a flat collar snug around the neck. It’s an aesthetic thing – and I don’t have the blind, knee-jerk, negative reaction to a CHECK chain that many people have, because I UNDERSTAND it as a training tool – therefore I don’t have a problem with my dog wearing it.

In any case, in the pictures she was referring to – Honey is actually wearing her new chain collar, which is a martingale collar, with the main part of the collar made of interlinking, flat chain links. It was originally a present from our Italian Dane friend, Lucille, and we think it’s very pretty – shiny & chic, at the base of the neck, like a necklace. I don’t like collars that are tight higher up on the neck, breaking the line of the neck – no matter how pretty the pattern. It’s just a personal preference. Even when Honey wears her nylon buckle collar (she has one in baby blue, with daisies), I adjust it so that it is very loose, at the base of her neck and could easily slip over her ears.

Because I am not relying on the collar to restrain & control Honey and our rule is that the leash is never tight, it is actually irrelevant which kind of collar she is wearing – or none at all.

- The long answer is: I don’t have a problem or make judgements about any training tool. I think that all training tools can be effective if they are used correctly, with the right technique and with the right type of dogs & owners. I am a “combination” trainer (or what is probably referred to as a “crossover” trainer) in that I believe in using a combination of different training techniques and in using reward & correction together in training. Primarily reward – but occasionally correction, if the situation warrants it. I believe that dogs can understand “consequences” for their actions and I don’t feel that I am “damaging” my relationship with my dog simply because I use corrections occasionally (and I think my bond with Honey is proof of that, which can be seen in our videos – Honey is not a cowering, broken dog – she is confident, happy & eager to work with me – despite me occasionally correcting her for inappropriate behaviour).

I don’t like the way dog training has divided into camps, with members of each demanding blind loyalty like fundamentalist religions – and jumping down your throat if you don’t completely support one camp, to the exclusion of all else. It is sad & wrong that so many desperate owners out there are really struggling and yet are scared & ashamed to consider other methods (and ultimately end up giving up their dogs), simply because they’re beaten down with guilt by the “purely-positive” trainers for daring to try anything different. For a group of people who talk constantly against using intimidation, they sure don’t seem to have a problem with using it themselves on dog owners! (We were one of those desperate owners once who tried to do everything only positively out of a sense of guilt and ended up nearly rehoming Honey as a result – whereas the application of a combination of training methods has produced the wonderful dog she is today). In my opinion, any trainer who says “it’s my way or the high way” is a ‘bad’ trainer – and any trainer who isn’t willing to concede that different methods may suit different dogs and is open-minded enough to consider alternatives is an “uneducated” trainer, regardless of how many letters they may have after their name.

I know it’s not PC so say this but I am not a “purely positive” trainer who thinks you mustn’t ever say “NO” or raise your voice to your dog, otherwise you’ll damage your relationship. If your relationship with your dog is that fragile, then you don’t have much of a bond in the first place. I am tough but fair and consistent. And I spend a LOT of time building a strong bond with my dog outside of training, through interactive play and other activities.

I also make distinctions between the types of training I do: for example, all tricks, dancing, Rally-O, agility, etc are taught using only positive reinforcement (eg. clicker training) because I believe those are not ‘essential’ things – they’re done mainly for human entertainment/ego and so I don’t feel it is right to correct a dog for not performing them. But for “everyday training” which affects both the dog’s safety & others around him (eg. lunging), I am not afraid to use correction as well as rewards, if needed, because these are the things that are “non-negotiable” for me and need to be sorted quickly & effectively if the dog is to be a safe member of society and enjoy a full life. And also to protect the dog – because an out-of-control dog (especially a big one) in today’s society is constantly at risk of being labelled a “dangerous dog”, seized and put down.

Yes, you can still train problem behaviours using only positive-only methods but they often take a LOT longer – sometimes years – to see improvements, with the dog having a very restricted lifestyle/poor quality of life in the meantime. And many people simply give up because they haven’t got the patience or stamina to see out the training. To me, especially with a breed that has such a short lifespan, I am not willing to sacrifice years of my dog’s life working inefficiently at something, simply for the sake of a “principle”, when another method will work more quickly & effectively and – in my opinion – without hurting my dog. (Yes, there ARE risks with using correction and I have done a post in the past about them – you can read it here – which is why it’s important to have the guidance of an experienced trainer if you’re going to use it).

I don’t agree with using only punishment to train – or even using correction first – I always use positive-reinforcement first and many everyday problem behaviours CAN be fixed just with that method – but sometimes, with certain self-reinforcing, dangerous behaviours (and with very large, powerful dogs), reward on its own is just not as effective as combining it with well-timed & appropriate correction. So in those cases, I have no problems with using the combination – if it means that the dog can be helped faster and go on to enjoy better quality of life, with less stress & more freedom.

As for the original question about Honey’s collar – the way Sarah was referring to it as a “choke chain” shows just how little she understands this training tool. The correct name is a “CHECK chain” – because if used with the correct technique, it “checks” the dog in the middle of an unwanted behaviour, so that you can interrrupt him and re-direct him onto a more appropriate behaviour and reward him for that. It should NEVER be tight on the dog’s neck, ever. A tight check chain is completely useless and worthless (and potentially harmful). If used in the right way (and with the right handlers & dogs), it is a very effective training tool.

HOWEVER, it’s true – most people use it completely WRONG and do “choke” their dogs. Therefore, I do agree that it is a training tool that is very easily abused and therefore not a good choice for most people. This is why – while I personally don’t have a problem with it – I don’t promote it on the blog or encourage using it, because it requires a very special technique which is a practical skill and can only be taught by an experienced trainer watching & guiding you in ‘real life’.

Basically, it’s very easy to “screw it up” – (the very sharp, quick “snap” or “pop” action – which “checks” the dog and instantly releases the chain – people think they can just look & copy but they are usually just jerking the chain around) and impossible to learn just from reading instructions from a book or online – or even watching a video. It requires perfect timing & coordination which takes a LOT of practice to achieve (and which most people don’t have the time or patience to do) – and the absolute key is to keep NO tension on the leash at all times (which goes against most people’s instincts; they tend to tighten up the leash when worried the dog will misbehave).

Almost all pet owners I see using it, use it wrong. They are either yanking the dog on it or the chain is just constantly tight (with the dog choking & gasping at the end of it) while the dog pulls – thus possibly damaging their throat/spine or simply developing very strong neck muscles and learning to ignore the pressure of the chain. You should not be using the physical unpleasantness of “choking” to stop a dog from doing something -

(You can basically choke a dog on any collar. It is not the fault of the type of collar being used but the fault of the skill (or lack of skill) of the handler. I have seen many dogs “choking” – gasping & pulling – on flat buckle collars, as they drag their owners everywhere. Similarly, I have seen many dogs on head halters – which, yes, don’t “choke” – but the really determined dogs still pull & lunge with their heads yanked unnaturally sideways, which can’t be good for the neck & spine either. It just depends on the dog. A really good trainer knows that there is no “one-size fits all” and no one tool which works for every dog, every owner & every situation.)

- with the correct technique, you should simply be using the chain to “startle” a dog in the middle of his inappropriate behaviour – which gives you a chance to redirect him and praise him for doing the right behaviour. And physical strength should have nothing to do with it. Honey weighs about 20kg (44lbs) more than me – but with the right technique, I can still “check” her very effectively because it is not dependent on my yanking her hard enough to stop her. You can have a tiny dog and still not be able to control them with a check chain, if you’re not using the correct technique.

But as I said, the problem with the check chain is not in the tool itself but in that it’s really easy to “screw it up” – and that is why I agree that the check chain is a poor choice of training tool for most people: it is just too hard to learn how to use properly, compared to something like the head halter or harness which requires very little skill to get right – and it is what I usually recommend to most average pet owners who tell me that their dog is pulling uncontrollably – BUT only as a temporary “band-aid” to help them control their dogs and keep everybody safe, until they can get help from a professional trainer.

The problem is – people don’t treat them as a temporary “band-aid” but as a substitute for real training. One reason I don’t like head halters & those “No-Pull harnesses”, etc is because people come to depend on them to “restrain” the dog and physically prevent them from pulling – rather than teaching their dogs not to pull. They basically use it as a “quick fix” instead of tackling the root of the problem. I meet many people using the head harness – for years – and without it, the dog will still pull. With it on, the dog doesn’t pull but only coz he’s uncomfortable…to me, any type of collar should only be a TEMPORARY training tool.

Ultimately, you should be working with a trainer to teach your dog to CHOOSE to walk on loose-leash, nicely, without pulling – regardless of what he’s wearing. In fact, you should be working to control your dog without any collar or leash at all.

Which goes back to what I said in the beginning – the type of collar Honey is wearing is actually irrelevant because I have as much control over her “naked”. I am not relying on the collar & leash to control her. I actually feel more confident & in-control when she is off-leash, because I am simply using my voice to control her. But I keep a leash & collar on her because it is the law and I feel very strongly about obeying dog-laws.

* I HATE those people who waltz around our local neighbourhood with their dogs off-leash, crossing busy roads and down crowded pavements…all to prove that they have such “wonderful control”over their dogs, they don’t need a leash. It is arrogant and ultimately gives dog owners a bad name (especially as usually, they DON’T have as much control over their dogs as they think. A dog caused a pile-up in our local village the other day because it suddenly ran across the road and cars had to screech to a halt to avoid hitting it. It was running across to another dog – and the owner was chasing it yelling. Why didn’t he have it on leash?? IT’S THE LAW.) I can walk my dog without any collar or leash too – but I don’t. Why should I? I’ve got nothing to prove and I don’t think I am above the law.  There is nothing wrong with having your dog on leash – he can enjoy the walk just as much – and if your dog really IS that well-trained, then it shouldn’t matter if he’s on leash since he shouldn’t pull anyway, right? OK, rant over!

I have worked very long & hard so that I can get my dog to Heel past distractions, obey commands, leave temptations, recall & stay, etc – all without direction or pressure from a collar & leash. And that is what I think training should really be about – not relying on any particular training tool – no matter how good – as a “crutch”.

“The strongest leash of all is that invisible leash that connects one heart to another, and it’s built of love & trust.  The sad reality is that the heart’s invisible leash is often broken or has never been built. Dogs who wear collars do not have to wear them forever. The need for leads and collars begins to disappear as training progresses.  If the training is thorough and followed through to off leash control, the collar becomes just another intermediate step in the training process. It is up to the handler to continue training to the point where equipment is necessary only to obey leash laws and protect the dog.”

Suzanne Clothier, world renown dog trainer/behaviouralist